Fresh pasta

One luxury in this world, in relation to the mouth, is fresh pasta. In fact, it is a relatively cheap and simple luxury, and well worth the time, if you are so inclined.

Your Italian ancestors (or any ancestor with noodles in their cuisine) would say that you can do this by hand, and they are correct. But if you are going to get this process done efficiently (especially for beginners), a pasta maker is a good tool to invest in. It may collect dust for the first 3 years (looking in my direction), but if you can find a good go-to recipe, it will become an important kitchen tool. I use an Imperia brand hand crank machine, but there are many others on the market that work great. Stand mixers also come with this as an attachment too. Think of this as the talking piece to a fun pasta party night, glasses of red wine, and good cheese.

I have recently found an excellent recipe that produces a strong, resilient egg dough, which produces silky noodles, perfect for an infinite number of recipes. The basis of most egg noodles is eggs and flour, sometimes water, sometimes oil. Traditional recipes call for durum wheat, but if this can't be found, all-purpose flour is good too. A mixture of different grain flours can also be incorporated for textured noodles with interesting flavours. Vegetable purees (spinach, squash etc.) can be incorporated into the eggs before mixing to make a colorful noodle. But here is the basic recipe that is sure to please, from The Art of Simple Food, by Alice Waters (of Chez Panisse, Berkeley). This dough will be the basis for any shape and form of pasta, so have fun!

Fresh Pasta
For 4 servings

Measure into a bowl 2 cups flour
Measure into another bowl 2 eggs and 2 egg yolks.

• Make a well in the flour and pour in eggs. Mix with a fork, as if scrambling eggs, incorporating flour bit by bit. If using a stand mixer, combine with paddle attachment, pouring eggs in at low speed.
• When flour is too stiff to mix with a fork, finish mixing by hand. If crumbly, add water dropwise, mixing until dough starts to come together.
• Turn out onto floured surface and knead lightly (for both hand and stand mixer method).
• Shape dough into a disk and wrap in plastic to rest for at least an hour. The dough can be put in the fridge overnight, allowing to come to room temperature before using.

To roll by machine:

• For ease of rolling, cut a quarter of the dough (wrap the remaining to prevent drying).
• Roll pasta through widest setting. Fold dough into thirds, and pass through machine again. Repeat two more times.

Folding dough into thirds, like an envelope, circa 1810 (just need a wax seal!)

This also kneads the dough, so multiple passes through is important

• Roll, decreasing settings each time until pasta is of desired thickness. I did the pasta to the thinest setting ('6'). The dough is now quite long, and if you would like a specific length of noodles, divide sheet appropriately.

Before and after

• Run pasta sheet through desired noodle cutting attachment. My machine comes with a fettuccine cutter, but other options are available. It is also fun to cut the noodle sheets by hand, so get creative with widths and shapes.
• Toss noodles lightly with flour to keep from sticking. 

To prepare:

• Boil a large pot of water, salting once boiling. Keep at a rapid boil.
• Add pasta (stir to keep from sticking), cook for 3-6 minutes, depending on the thickness of noodle. The pasta is done when the noodles are cooked through, but still have a good bite (al dente).

For a super easy, comforting pasta for one, mash 1 tablespoon of butter, pinch of salt, pepper and quarter of garlic, minced. Toss with cooked pasta (1/4 of the dough), and you are ready! Fresh herbs, lemon zest, and parmesan cheese would fit in nicely too!

Quesadillas

I caught a glimpse of my copy of Rick Bayless' Mexico - One Plate at a Time today, and was inspired to have quesadillas for a light and simple lunch.

Quesadillas are Mexico's answer to the France's croque monsieur, and America's grilled cheese. It is a meal in hand - crisp tortilla, and basically any filling you can think of, topped with melted, rich cheese. Flour tortillas are the norm in the US when preparing this dish, but the most traditional form is corn masa tortillas. Fresh ground masa is the ultimate choice (check out your nearest mercado that makes this fresh daily for a ball or two), but the home cook can find instant corn masa in most supermarkets. The flavor of fresh corn tortillas is only 2 minutes away! Corn masa tortilla dough is the basis for many traditional recipes, like gorditas and sopes, so keep this one in your back pocket.

For 4 small tortillas (following package directions):
1/2 cup masa flour
1/3 cup water
pinch of salt

Here's everything you need!

Mix ingredients in bowl until a soft dough. If dough appears dry, add extra water a tablespoon at a time until dough feels moist. Keep in moist towel to prevent drying out.

Divide into 4 equal pieces and roll into balls. To press into tortillas, you can use the traditional tortilla press, or your own creation. Mine are two ceramic baking pieces (see below). Cut open a freezer bag, and place ball in between layers. Press down to flatten, and peel tortilla carefully from plastic. Keep moist until ready to cook.

I made quesadillas today with prepared refried black beans, a local cow-sheep smoked cheese, and fresh cilantro. Bayless suggests squash blossoms, Oxacan string cheese and epazote leaves - will try this in the summer. On each tortilla, spread filling on one half, folding gently to enclose with the other. Press edges to seal - if tortilla is getting dry it will tend to split. This didn't seem to effect the cooking or deliciousness.

Bayless instructs to fry tortillas in 3/4 inch oil (375F) - a definite treat, but I pan fried with a coating of oil today. Fry on medium high heat, turning 2-3 times until browning and crisp. Enjoy!

With a side of summer squash, tomatoes, cumin and oregano - lovely!

Toasty cumin, tasty cumin

Mrs. Sengupta's spice collection

 Along with the friendships I took away from living in a certain East coast state, it was gleaning from many of my Indian colleagues the wonders of fresh spices in cooking. There would be close at hand in their warm kitchens, small tins within a larger tin of fresh cumin, fenugreek, black mustard seed, tumeric, chili pepper, and other mysteries to the Western palate. While I do not have such a wonderful organizing system (think a jumble of small plastic bags), this philosophy still rings in my kitchen long after leaving.

A spice that reaches across many cultures is cumin - Mexican, North African, Chinese, Mediterranean, and more. The next time you want to make a Cuban-inspired marinade, or even Egyptian dhukka (and yes, I had to look that one up!), a great way to punch up the cumin factor (and many other spices, like coriander and oregano) is to quickly toast in a handy frying pan. Heating on low, until there is a earthy 'cumin' aroma, and the seeds darken, is all you need to make a party in your mouth later on. Store the seeds in a small, air tight container, or use right away.

If you want to go a step further, a nice investment is an automatic spice mill (like a coffee grinder, although don't grind coffee with it!), or an old-fashioned mortar and pestle. A little elbow grease never tasted so good.

Ahhh - all the frustrations of the day just melt away

Cumin before and after

A great source for fresh spices are natural food markets, or markets serving communities that use a variety of spices in their food. Perhaps a whole new culinary path will come of it!

Super easy cream cheese frosting

Warning to the reader: this recipe is dangerously fast and easy. You may begin to use it in everyday life....like on that morning bagel. Another warning (or perhaps note of hope), I have never made icing, nor taken lessons on piping. This post should illustrate that if one gets over inhibitions, you too can become a frosting rock star in 20 minutes. This recipe comes from Gourmet (1998). Check out the post on cupcakes too!

Click here for Buttermilk Cupcakes

These frostings are not too sweet and do well in piping and spreading over cupcakes. I especially love the flecks of orange zest in the orange frosting - you don't even need sprinkles (although these are definitely allowed!).

Planning tips:

• Bring butter and cream cheese to room temperature
• For fancy icing (shown here), prepare piping tips and bags. I used 12 inch Wilton disposable bags here, but a sturdy ziplock bag works too. Cut end of disposable bag (or corner of zip lock) to accommodate a piping tip. If you don't have a piping tip, just use the open end of the bag. The size of hole will determine how much icing is applied. You can also apply the icing using a knife or flat icing spatula - simple and elegant!
• Other useful tools: silicon spatula, stand mixer or hand mixer, zester or fine grater
• If not using organic oranges, make sure to wash peel thoroughly, as this is where most of the chemical sprays are retained.

Cream Cheese Frosting two ways - Chocolate and Orange

Enough for 24 cupcakes. Can be made 2 days ahead, refrigerated separately, covered.

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate

2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter, softened

1 3/4 cups whipped cream cheese (about 10 ounces)

4 cups confectioners' sugar

3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

zest of 1 orange (preferably organic)

Sprinkles of your choice 

Place chocolate in a small bowl over simmering water. Melt chocolate, stirring until smooth. In a bowl with an electric mixer (or paddle attachment) on low speed beat together butter, cream cheese, and confectioners' sugar until light and fluffy.

Creamy perfection!

Transfer half of cream cheese mixture to another bowl and stir in melted chocolate until combined well. Stir orange juice and zest into remaining frosting.

Orange zest gives a burst of flavour and colour

Hello beautiful!

If frostings are too soft, chill slightly before using (this is the case for the orange frosting, for texture and flavour development). Frostings may be made 2 days ahead and chilled separately, covered. Bring frostings to cool room temperature and whisk to smooth before using. 

Since I am no expert, here is an excellent link for decorating cupcakes:

Wilton's guide to decorating cupcakes

I used Ateco tip #865 for the rosette piping, and #805 for the smooth piping. I think attending decorating class is in my future!

Using #865 - steady girl, steady!

Not too shabby for a beginner! Maybe $3.50 cupcakes?

Let's try cupcakes

Typically if you call something a 'trend', that something is now rendered uncool and un-hip. As the cupcake 'trend' sweeps the nations of the earth, I think we have found one that is too delicious to be rendered otherwise.

For those who have never tried baking cakes from scratch, let me assure you in this department, I am only about 20 minutes ahead of you. Cakes from scratch is something I have tried on a number of occasions and failed miserably (likely due to not fully following the recipes), and have resorted to using face-saving mixes.

Despite this, I was curious to see how easy it is to make these sweet treats in the kitchen, and put those $5 bakery cupcakes to shame. I will be using Buttermilk cupcakes (Gourmet, 1998), and to up the ante, will also do two (yes, two) cream cheese frostings (in the next post) to top these knolls of goodness. In fact, you will find that homemade cupcakes take only slightly longer than using a mix, and you can claim 100% bragging rights.

Some planning points:

• pull out your butter, eggs, and buttermilk to come to room temperature
• have your cake flour sifted (substitute 1 cup sifted cake flour with 3/4 cup bleached all-purpose flour and 2 tablespoons corn starch)
• Useful tools: silicon scraper, stand mixer or hand mixer, muffin tin, paper cups, ice cream scoop
• Easy tip: make granulated sugar 'superfine' (which makes blending with ingredient smoother) by pulsing in food processor to a very fine grain. Superfine sugar is used by professional bakers, and now by you too!

Buttermilk Cupcakes
Yield: 24 cupcakes (do not double recipe, make separate batches)


twenty-four 2 1/2-inch paper muffin cup liners
4 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla
4 large eggs
2 cups well-shaken buttermilk


Preheat oven to 350°F. and line twenty-four 1/2-cup muffin cups with paper liners. Into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a large bowl with an electric mixer beat together butter and sugar until light and fluffy (3-5 minutes) and beat in vanilla.

Not quite fluffy - keep beating!

Fluffy! Good idea: scrape down intermittently 

Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, and with mixer on low speed beat in buttermilk until just combined. Add flour mixture in 3 batches, beating until just combined after each addition. Divide batter among muffin cups (batter will fill cups). Using an ice cream scoop assists in this process.

 Bake in upper and lower thirds of oven, switching position of muffin trays halfway through baking, about 22 minutes, or until golden and a tester comes out clean. Cool cupcakes on racks 5 minutes and remove cupcakes from tray to cool completely. Cupcakes keep in an airtight container at room temperature 2 days.

Now what this needs is some frosting!

Pizza dough - yes you can!

breadexperience.com

I have heard many the lament concerning homemade pizza - I would love to do it, but it is just so difficult! Of everything in the kitchen, making dough (pizza, bread and otherwise) has the biggest payback per minute of effort. Who doesn't love that complex, primordial response that our taste buds make at the first catch of baking bread?

Here is what is in my head as best advice for beginners:

• Practice makes perfect! And even those batches of dough that appear to be disasters bake up to be quite delicious (what beats your own fresh baking?) 
• Gluten (wheat protein) development is key, and this is done by kneading. So if the recipe says 10 minutes, that's typically what you will have to do. It took me several years to figure this out. Believe me, it is worth it. 
• Measure everything properly - baking is all about chemistry.
• Be confident - your love for family and friends will shine through in every bite.

Flour, yeast, and salt! Magic makers!

I have in my arsenal a recipe for pizza dough that has stood the test of time in my kitchen, published in Gourmet (July 2009). There are many admirable recipes that include multigrains, oils etc., but I love this one due to the simplicity of ingredients, and the magic that flour and water make when properly manipulated. The result is a silky dough, that bakes to a crunchy, flavourful crust, and chewy base for whatever toppings you think up. A memorable pizza!

Remember that practice makes perfect, and you will very quickly learn what to look for with your dough. Keep at it, and you will soon impress family and friends (think pizza party!).

I will show below the process using a stand mixer (with the recipe changed to reflect) - I apologize for not doing so by hand here, as it is not only simple, but has tactile enjoyment!. But this girl has only two hands to work and take pictures! Before I get started, useful tools to have are a culinary thermometer (that can read in the 100F-120F range), and a ceramic baking dish (although a cookie sheet works just fine too!).

Pizza dough

yield: Makes 2 pounds
active time: 15 min (yes, you can!)
total time: 1 3/4 hr (to go do something else while the yeast does all the heavy lifting)

2 (1/4-ounces) packages active dry yeast (you can use 'instant' yeast also)
4 1/2 to 5 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, divided, plus additional for dusting
2 cups warm water (105–115&Deg;F), divided
2 teaspoons salt

Whisk together yeast, 2 tablespoons flour, and 1/2 cup warm water in a measuring cup and let stand until mixture develops a creamy foam, about 10 minutes. (If mixture doesn’t foam, discard and start over with new yeast.)

Proper temperature is key!

Nicely bubbly - so satisfying

In a large bowl, stir together salt and 3 cups flour using the paddle attachment (or whisk if by hand). Add yeast mixture and remaining 1 1/2 cups warm water while mixer is running at medium speed, stirring until smooth (use a sturdy wooden spoon if by hand), then stir in 1 cup more flour (you will have to use your hands at this point, instead of the spoon). If dough is still sticking to the mixer bowl (or to your fingers), stir in just enough flour (up to 3/4 cup), a little at a time, to make dough just come away from side of bowl. (This dough may be wetter than other pizza doughs you have made.)

A bit more flour, and time for the hook

Change to dough hook attachment, and run on medium-high for approximately 8 minutes. Let the motor rest at 4 minute intervals to prevent overheating of the motor. If by hand, knead dough on a lightly floured surface with floured hands, lightly reflouring work surface and your hands when dough becomes too sticky, until dough is smooth, soft, and elastic, about 10 minutes.

To knead: Using the heel of your hand, fold the dough over onto itself, make a quarter-turn, and repeat. You will get into a rhythmic movement that is quite mediative. See photo at top as an illustration.

Dough is pulling away from the bowl - keep kneading hook!

If you are using a stand mixer, here is why it is good not to walk away!

Result: Silky smooth dough! This recipe is stickier than others, so expect it to be still slightly so.

Divide dough in half and form into 2 balls, then generously dust balls all over with flour and put each in a medium bowl. Shape the balls into a 'dome', with folded part on bottom. This will allow even rising.
Note: I freeze one of the dough balls (each makes a large pizza, for 4 people): lightly coat in oil and dust with flour, wrap in plastic, and place in freezer bag. To use, allow to thaw (can do this overnight in the fridge, with extra time on the counter), and allow to rise as below. You can also do the rise now, and freeze the dough, only having to thaw next time.

Cover bowls with plastic wrap and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Don't rush the rising by putting it in a hot place, fermentation of the yeast is an important factor here for flavour. Let the beasties do there work gently!

Before

After - about 1 hour

The recipe does not get into the actual baking, so here is what I do.

Preheat oven to 500F (hot, but required!), putting rack in lower third. Dust a sheet of choice (a ceramic one in my case) with cornmeal (optional).

How will this fit? Some dough yoga is coming - stretch!

You can roll your dough on floured surface, or just hand stretch as below. Do so evenly, so that there are no bare patches. If you did not knead long enough, this is where it will show. The dough will tear easily and will be harder to shape.

Top your pizza as you see fit! I try not to put too many toppings on (especially ones with lots of liquid), so the dough bakes quickly with the toppings and cheese. My pizza had seeded tomatoes, red peppers, onions, cooked sausage, and mozzarella.
Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown, bottom is crispy (or at least not soggy), and cheese is browned and melted. Let sit a bit before you cut it...and dig in!

A slice to make Wolfgang Puck proud!

Secrets of a Hostess, or Making cookies in a snap

Warm baked cookies! I think if there is anything that is universally appealing, it is that. So the quest is to find a recipe that can be whipped up at a moments notice, and easily stored for future impromptu visitors.

On a recent morning, I found myself in a quandary where I had 30 minutes to pull ingredients cold from the fridge to showtime.  The recipe that saved the day, Oatmeal Raisin cookies from Gourmet magazine (1999) is below. Resident raisin connoisseurs have raved these are the best ever.

The key to successful baking of cookies is two fold, room temperature ingredients (like eggs and butter), and mise en place (everything in its place).

The first thing to do (after turning on that oven) when you are in a rush, is to get those cold proteins and fats to a state where they will incorporate into the dough properly (i.e., not cold!). Eggs placed in a bowl of warm water for 5 minutes takes the chill off. Trickier is the butter - I place the butter (still in the paper wrapper) in the microwave for 8-10 second bursts at 70% (or less) power, turning over to evenly warm. It is important not to melt the butter, so if the butter stick already has some give that's enough. Ideally, a butter temperature of 67F is ideal, but who is measuring when you have 28 minutes to go?

Even if you don't have those nifty bowls with everything pre-measured before you start, it is a good idea to read the recipe through beforehand, and layout all the ingredient before you, grouping 'drys' and 'wets' together. This way, everything is at hands reach when you need it, and there is no scrambling when the clock is ticking.

Oatmeal Raisin cookies (in a snap)

1 3/4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla


Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease baking sheets.
Stir together oats, flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. Beat together butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla and beat until combined well. Add oat mixture and beat until just combined.
Drop dough by heaping tablespoons 2 inches apart onto baking sheets and flatten mounds slightly with moistened fingers. Bake cookies in upper and lower thirds of oven, switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until golden, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to racks to cool.

Hostess tip: If you only want to bake a portion of this recipe, measure out remaining dough onto a cookie sheet and pop into the freezer. Once the delicious nuggets are frozen, you are a freezer bag away from instant fame as a hostess with the most-est!